My favourite increase is the most invisible and goes by many names. It looks great when stacked to create a taper, like in a sleeve.
It also has many abbreviations, none of which are standard and they all mean the same thing:
The following is a photo tutorial. You may view my video tutorial here.
Right-slanting raised increase
Work to location for increase.The RRI is worked into the right side of the next column of sts on the needle.
Rotate knitting so you can see the back and locate the purl bump directly below the next st on the needle.
Insert right-hand needle downwards into that purl bump from the top of the stitch.
Wrap your working yarn around the needle and knit the stitch. Don’t let the next stitch slip off the left-hand needle—increase completed.
Work next stitch on needle in the normal fashion.
Left-slanting raised increase
Work to location for increase. The LRI is worked into the left side of the column of sts just worked.
Locate the bar between the stitches on each needle.
Line up the left-hand needle so it’s parallel to and just under that bar.
Follow that bar, running the needle towards the right-hand needle and you’ll find your left-hand needle slipping into the stitch two rows below the stitch just worked on the needle. (Note: this is the same row as the RRI was worked but it might feel like there’s an extra row. Compare the photos and notice that it’s the same row in the striping pattern.)
Now that the lifted stitch is on the left-hand needle, knit into the back of the stitch—1 st increased.
When working paired increases at each end of the row (say, for a sleeve), generally they are worked at least one stitch in from the edge. I prefer having two stitches between my edge and the increase, remembering that one stitch at each end is used in the seam.
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